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Expedition: 2007                     Photo Gallery     Haramosh Range-Kutwal Lake
22nd Aug 07 -      31th Aug,07
The Team:          Nigi - Eddie - Andy -Terry - Fireman - TwoTango
The Route: L    ahore - Islamabad - Gilgit - Sassi - Dssu - skere -Manni Glacier - Kutwal village - Lake

Expedition Haramosh
55 Km. Far from Gilgit, the road leads to “Sassi Village” where the jeep takes one and half hour to reach “Barchi” (Dssu/Stage) where a trek starts which takes two days to reach “Kutwal Lake”. This is a very beautiful lake located at the bottom of Haramosh peak at an altitude of 9,000 ft. above the sea level. The lake is surrounded by thousands of pine trees.

Kutwal Lake

Rafting

Haramosh LA

Camping at Kutwal village

Gilgit -to Sassi Arrange a jeep or hiace from Gilgit for Saasi. you can also take the bus to Skardu. Saasi is apprx. 2 hrs drive on Gilgit to Skardu (mettled)road.

Sassi to Dssu(also known as stage) via Jeep or Loader
Stop at Saasi petrol pump or you can dine and sleep at the only road-side restaurant in Sassi village. Search for it! You can camp at a small ground right next to the restaurant. There is no need to pitch tents since it's not very cold (May to August). Arrange for a jeep/loader and porters by talking to the people at the petrol pump or restaurant. Try to find Ashdar Khan at Sassi or Dssu. He is the reliable young porter in the area. He can arrange porters and can guide you to the lake The jeep/loader will cost Rs.3000(round trip in year 2007) for the Sassi to Dache/Dssu ride.Tell the loader/jeep when you intend to be back at Dassu and when he should return to pick you up. Negotiate the cost right there.

Cobra seeing off at Lahore- He was going to UK for studies. Going without him was the worst part of the expedition.

Flight to Gilgit

2 flights daily from islamabad to Gilgit

Air Fare 4500/= (return in yr 2007)

Gilgit Airport

Seat for all flights to and from northern areas can be confirmed only one day before the departure.

Sassi Petrol pump

Thats the only transport available. Arrange porters at Saasi (at Petrol Pump)

Track to Dssu
Difficulty: Very High-Narrow & Slippery

Track Time: 1 hr 30

Dssu/stage to Sillpi or Iskere Village
Ascend from the jeep trail at Dassu for about 45 minutes till you come to level ground. This is a small plateau with a single house known as Sillpi. We were tired and late so we decided to spent the night at this beautiful spot -Sillpi. It’s a single house village (Sillpi) . Owner of the house is very poor but hospitable . He offered us fresh corn and cucumber from his field and helped us in solving porter issues.
This is not a busy track for trekkers. Porters are young and non professional but not expensive. 5They keep changing the deals and keep asking for increase. We started at Rs. 600 per porter ended up paying 1200/= per porter (round trip) .

Don’t try in rain or after the sunset.	Dassu (Stage) End of Jeep Track. Track to Kutwal Lake begins. First Stage Sillpi.	Dassu to Sillpi track Track Time: 1 hr 30 mnts apprx. Difficulty : Moderate	Sillpi Village (with just 1 houses) That is the only plateau in first 3 hrs tracking. If you are late than camp here.	Camp Site at Sillpi Nigi fixing the tent. Enjoy Plenty of wood, clear stream and fresh corn
Fresh water stream is running at the back of the camps.	I Owner of Sillpi-Lovely happy family of Sillpi	Prepration for the day hike to kutwal	Porters carry less weight(15kg)as compare to porters in other areas(25kgs)	Steep Climb before Iskere Village. Be careful– Dangerous - climb slowly

Track to Iskere Village

Track Diffic: Strenuous Track Time: 7-8 Hours

Terrain: Water Falls- Glacier and ForestMostly Ascend.
The terrain is easy with a clear trail winding its way next to a clear stream for an hour. Descend gradually to another stream and climb for an hour or so over green hills to arrive at the green and picturesque village of Iskere. There is a good campsite 20 minutes or so away from Iskere (the locals do not like you to camp right outside their village).

Catching the breath /luch time

Clear water stream is running along the track till Iskere Village

At the start ofIskere Village

Final Descend to Mani Glacier.
Very steep descend. but no need of the rope. keep your hands free

Mani and the Baska

Mani glacier going off towards the South-West and the gap in the mountains where the Baska glacier comes down from North-East.

Mani and the Baska Glaciers
Trek on from Iskere for an hour or so over fairly level terrain. Clear streams run down along your right side as you cross lovely alpine meadows. The locals come to this area to collect rare mushrooms that they claim sell for Rs.6,000 a kilo.
Climb for the next 2.5 hours or so over green hills and through pine? forests till you come to the edge of the Mani glacier’s lateral moraine. The Mani and the Baska glacier will meet before you. You will see the Mani glacier going off towards the South-West and the gap in the mountains where the Baska glacier comes down from the North-East.

Crossing Glacier: Glaciers are huge with crevasses.
Crossing time: 1 hr Difficulty: Moderate

Descend a short scree slope of about 50 feet into the rocky Mani glacier. Hop over the boulders and rocks for an hour, moving North-East..

Crevasses.
Follow the track to avoid crevasses.

Final ascend to Kutwal Village

Walk slowly and take short rest to save energy, last 15 minutes climb to the village is very steep

Kutwal Village/camp site. Photo taken from the (only) clear water stream

Kutwal Village
Descend a short scree slope of about 50 feet into the rocky Mani glacier. Hop over the boulders and rocks for an hour, moving North-East.

You will come to another small scree slope. Climb this and enter pine forests again. Climb for another 45 minutes or so and you will see the gorgeous village/camp site of Kutwal.

Lush green meadows. Plenty of wood available. Stream is running right beside the camp site. Don’t use it for drinking, only for washing. Stream is coming through the village so it is not very clean . For clear drinking water, there is a small stream under the large bolder 75 meters away.

You can cook your own gravy/sallin and request villagers for rotties/chapatti for 10 Rs. each.

At this spot north east of the camp site under the boulder from where you can get drinking water.

Malubiting (7458m) Peak in the background

Don't go near the houses . Local don’t like it much.

Collect plenty of wood for born fire.

Namaz e Asaar

Night at Kutwal
Here you can afford late night party as lake is just 1:30 hours away in the morning.

The Catch

Fireman and Eddi preparing the roast

Fireman as usual busy in his job. Plenty of wood easily available.

Terry and the roast. It was really difficult to cook on this altitude. Better try to get younger and small bird

Kutwal Village to Kutwal Lake
Track Difficulty: Easy Track Time: 1-2 Hours Terrain: Easy Track Time: 1-2 Hours Terrain: Beautiful Open Valleys and Lush green Plateaus

Camp the night in Kutwal and set out for Kutwal Lake in the morning. Trek over mostly flat grassy land for 1.5 hours approx to reach Kutwal Lake. You can camp near the lake. The nearest stream is 15 or so minutes away from this camp site. You will see Haramosh (7,409m) towards the South and the Haramosh Pass/Haramosh La (4,800m) towards the East. The base of the pass is a 1.5 hour trek from the lake. So that’s a little over 3 hours to and from the base of the pass.

The team at the Kutwal

way to final destination

AD and fireman catching the breath

Porter caring the rafts and paddles in the card box

Crossing Kutwal Village 2

Kutwal Village 2
We forgot the real name of this village also known as 2nd Kutwal . This is one of the most beautiful villages we have seen in Pakistan This come just after 30 minutes trekking from The Kutwal Village1. Here you have a fair chance to hit huge six or a 100 miler bouncer in a lush green cricket ground.

Lush green meadows of Kutwal village2 with humongous Haramosh range in front.

Lake is situated right at the end of this valley.

Entrance to 2nd village

Enjoy this magnificent scenery - Its hard to find so much mass with so much beauty

Cricket Match at the highest ground with local spectators

The Kutwal/Haramosh Lake (3,260m)

Camp near the lake. The nearest stream is 15 or so minutes away from this camp site. You will see Haramosh (7,409m) towards the South and the Haramosh Pass/Haramosh La (4,800m) towards the East. The base of the pass is a 1.5 hour trek from the lake. So that’s a little over 3 hours to and from the base of the pass.

Last ascend to Kutwal Lake

Nigi-Last climb over Lake

The beauty (3260m)

Inflating boats

Camping at the lake
There are fair chances of rain. Dig small channels for rain water to protect your tents. Ask the porters to leave early so they can reach the nearest village to spend the night.

Haramosh LA in the back ground(4,800m)	Setting up the camp	Setting up the camp	Haramosh Peak	2Tango and Andy making rain water drainage channels for rain water. Which really protected us from the rain at night
The perfect camp site	Boats ready for the action	Spell bounded Andy and Terry	Terry with clear Haramosh Peak in the background (7,409m)

Rafting in the lake
The lake is very big and deep. You need to have proper gear i.e good boats, life jackets .

Swimming in the lake
The water is very cold. We do not recommend swimming in the lake. We tried but it is very difficult to stay in the water for long because of water temprature and altitude but if you cant resist - swim in the shallow, only if you are a very good swimmer.

Deep Sea Swimmer -Atif

don't try without life jackets. as the lake is big and deep

Fireman

Night at the Kutwal lake

Fireman cutting the tree for the night with the help of porters

2 Tango Preparing the dinner at the Lake

Spell bounded Terry, Andy and clear peak of Haramosh

Beautiful sunset at the Kutwal

Attempting Haramosh La (4,800m)
Trekking time (roundtrip from base): 9-12 hours
We did not try....
Trek to the base of Haramosh La (1.5 hours from Kutwal Lake) and camp here the day before you attempt Haramosh La. Leave early (6ish) and climb to the top in 5-6 hours. The climb is very steep (~70 degrees). It is easier to climb up than to descend because of danger of falling or slipping. It might not be possible to descend without rope. So bring rope to help you in descent and someone who can fix rope. Descent may take 3-5 hours.

Origin of gigantic Manni-Baska glacier

Eddi and the great wall of Haramosh

According to the porters there is fish in the lake, we tried but no catch,

Harmaosh Peak

2Tango, Nigi, and Andy on the way back

Back to base
The entire descent from Kutwal Lake to Dssu can also be done in 5-6 hours.We descended from Kutwal Lake to Kutwal, crossed the Mani Glacier,Iskere village and returned to Dssu. The Jeep was already waiting for us at Dssu/Stage and same evening on the jeep we reached Gilgit.

journey back from lake to village is very exotic	Water fall before Iskere	descend at Iskere Village	Meadows at Village 2	Last photo with the villagers the Kutwal Village
Grape party near Dssu	loaded Jeep back to Sillpi	Terry and Eddi preparing Omelet	Porter Baba - Ariel view of Barche village	Camp Fire